Homestead's shoot-from-the-hip attitude gives it a unique flavor

SPARTA - The Homestead Rest lives by the “Code of the West,” which customers will find printed on every menu, particularly the part about striving to do better every day. And that’s just what restaurant owner Peggy Cofrancesco had in mind when she answered a growing demand from her patrons and recently celebrated expansion of the landmark Sparta restaurant. “People would come and there would be no place for them to wait,” said Cofrancesco. The new space, positioned adjacent to the main dining room, also is available for private parties. If diners have any interest in horses and cowboys, they will be awed by the hundreds of awards the family has received for the animals they have raised and shown. The rustic appeal of the restaurant caught the eye of film producers, and it was featured in the 1997 movie, “In and Out.” The shooting, which took place during a two-week period, was a great experience, said Cofrancesco. “It gave us an insight into a big-time film production. They must have done the scene 500 times,” she added. The original Homestead was built in 1926 and served as a small grocery store and ice cream stand for the community of Lake Grinnell. After the repeal of prohibition it was transformed into a tavern. When Cofrancesco and her late husband, Peter Cofrancesco, bought the place in 1990, “It was a shot and beer place, and the only food was Slim Jims and pickled eggs,” she said. “We slowly turned it into the restaurant we have today. It has evolved through the years.” Many recipes are the creations of youngest son, Jarred, known as the Guru of Barbecue, having won Sussex County’s Champion of the Grill contest every year since inception of the cooking contest in 2004. A suggested Trail Starter is bruschetta, with Italian bread toasted with garlic, tomato and herbs, or Texas cheese taters, a cowboy’s portion of french fries smothered with Texas chili, three bubbly melted cheeses, hickory smoked bacon, and jalape-o slices. The salads, which pay tribute to modern-day, western saddle makers, include the Phil Harris, consisting of light and refreshing romaine, mixed spring frees, Belgium endive tossed with fresh, sliced crispy pears, toasted walnuts, crumbled blue cheese, and topped with fresh grilled jumbo shrimp, pan-seared sea-scallops, or chicken breast homemade toasted walnut vinaigrette dressing. Another standout is Peg’s Famous Rice Pudding, which, indeed, does come from an old family recipe. Homemade potato chips are unique to the restaurant’s fare. Other best sellers include the Homestead hamburger and steaks, a 24-ounce rib eye and a 10 ounce filet mignon. Drink specials may include the French martini, made with vodka, chambord, and pineapple, and domestic tap beer or soft drinks available in a take-home boot mug, allowing folks an opportunity to bring home a bit of the Old West. “Happy employees are key to the success of the Homestead,” said Cofrancesco. Bartender Maureen Reyes, who has been on staff for eight years, said “A lot of people have been here a long time.” Another precept of the code, “Be loyal to the boss and the brand,” guides the staff of 25. Another is “Be generous with your life and your money,” which seems to direct the Cofrancesco family, evidenced by its prominence in the community. The Cofrancescos have long been committed to the success of the Sussex County Farm and Horse Show, which has grown considerably over the years, and they are heavily involved with the county’s 4H Club. According to Cofrancesco, there are many “regulars” who come in almost everyday. “Through the years, many customers have become friends - maybe their kids bussed here. It’s a family atmosphere, and it’s become a tradition for many.” The Homestead Rest is located at 294 North Church Road (Route 94), Sparta 07871. Call 973-383-4914 for more information. All major credit cards accepted.