Traditional food, new location

Andover - In today’s world it has become common for chain stores to run the mom and pop shops right out of town. However, there are still some family owned and operated businesses in Sussex County that are going strong. Fans of Italian food have been able to count on Bella Italia for seven years. The family-owned and operated restaurant brought its customers traditional Italian food in a relaxing homey atmosphere in the Cumberland Farms plaza in Andover. A few weeks ago, the Poli family closed its doors at Cumberland and move in to its new and larger location on Route 206 in Andover, just South of Newton. Martino Poli is general manager. At 25, he and his two sisters, Tonya, 22 and Maria, 16 were all born into the restaurant business. Fillipo Poli, their father and owner of the restaurant, came to America with his parents at 17 from Bari in Southern Italy. His brother had moved to the Bronx five years earlier and was working as a chef. The younger sibling was soon working with him as a cook. Eventually, the two brothers opened their own restaurant, San Martino, in Yonkers. Unfortunately, they had a falling out and the partnership was dissolved. In the meantime, Fillipo ran into achildhood friend, Caterina. They fell in love and were married, and after the split from his brother, they moved to Stanhope where Caterina’s mother and father lived. Now, grandparents, Nicola and Dora DeCarlo, parents Fillipo and Caterina Poli and their three children run the restaurant together. Oldest child, Martino has been working in the restaurants since he was 11. Both daughters also work in the restaurant, Tonya full time, Maria after school. Nonno, or grandfather, is what everyone calls Nicola, including the customers. He goes in every morning to make the sauce for the pizza and pasta and to make the eggplant for dishes like eggplant parmigiana. The desserts are home made by Nonna and Caterina each day. Three generations work together to make traditional Italian foods from recipes brought over from the “old country” along with new creations. About six months ago Cumberland Farms asked the Poli’s to move. “They gave us four months to move, I asked for more, they gave me six,” Fillipo said. The push from Cumberland just forced the Poli’s to do what they had been talking about. “We had 15 tables, people would have to wait and hour, an hour and a half,” said Martino. He and his dad had been looking for a new place, but wanted to stay in Andover with their loyal customers. When the Junction went on the market, “it was perfect timing,” he said. Bella Italia grew from 1200 to 5000 square feet. They not only have more room for their patrons, but hold parties. “We did a lot of catering in the old location, but now you can have your party here. We have parties booked already through August 1, though we do have a few openings still,” said Martino. The new restaurant is set up Trattoria style, with pizza tables up front and restaurant seating in the back. When steady customrs heard they were moving, “they all said the same thing, don’t change the menu, don’t change the look and they would go wherever we go.” Such a loyal following was a little surprising to the family during the first three days. Without advertising, there was still had an hour’s wait at dinner. “This place is much bigger than the other, once we’re settled in we may use the party room for dining to alleviate the wait,” explained Fillipo. On the menu are the usual Italian dishes, and special creations named for each family member: Veal alla Caterina- scaloppini with peas, and mushrooms in a lemon and white wine sauce. “Chicken Fillipo” with artichoke, pepper, mushrooms and sautéed onions in a Dijon mustard sauce. Martino, is “the pizza man.” A vegetarian. “I eat pizza pretty much every day of my life. My favorite is this Arugula Salad pizza with tomatoes, red onions, arugula, roasted red peppers and gorgonzola. The most popular one, though, is Buffalo chicken wing pizza,” he said. His favorite is the eggplant parmigiana, put together by his dad after Nonno prepares the eggplant and sauce. Martinoi explained how the way they prepare the food, and make their dishes from scratch “is time consuming, but definitely worth it. You can tell in the taste.” For information visit them online at www.bellaitalia8600.com or call 973-940-8600.